The Ace

 The moral of my experience at The Ace is probably: learn to make a damn reservation. It is this frequent oversight which has led me (and my unfortunate accomplices) to many a long wait. Though I showed up to the shiny new restaurant/diner at 231A Roncesvalles at 7:15pm, for an 8:00 get together, we didn't wind up with a table until close to 9pm. Oh boy. In the future, when visiting a such a new place I will be sure to call first. A lesson long overdue in being learned, which is not the fault of The Ace at all. These long waits simply offer a chance to wander an unfamiliar neighborhood and explore what fine bars abound, and to reconnect with dear friends who I don't see often enough.

The place itself is long, dark and narrow, like a corridor out of a Twin Peaks lodge, but without the unsettling metaphysical implications. The ceiling is black, the wallpaper old fashioned and intricate, faded. Candlelight almost exclusively serves as our lighting. Even with the kitchen cooking at full speed, there's something woodchippy and natural in the air. Compared to the outdoors on this cold night, The Ace is as cozy as blankets, its big and inviting window dripping with steam condensation.

Celery Root Soup ($4)-
A lightly creamy concoction simply from the luxuriant texture of the roots. this was delightfully fresh and comforting, a titch of cumin accenting the mellow celery root taste. The root is quite mellow compared to the stalk, and I think this is an idea soup to start a meal with.

Ontario Pork Chop w/ Russet Mash & Gravy ($21)-

Ryan has this, and the chop was big and juicy, the bone taking up a big chunk of the bulk. It had an appealing strip of fatty marbling and pips of herb. I didn't try this one, but from sight, the beans looked firm, the potatoes creamy. It disappeared with a speed that implies deliciousness!

Lake Erie Perch w/ Cauliflower Puree, Buttered Spinach & Roasted Red Pepper Compote ($22)-

Like the chop, the fillets of perch formed a little towed over their mash, a big red bullseye of pickled roast red pepper begging for a fork to land. The fish was evenly cooking, the skin indistinguishable from the body. Slightly smoky, very mild. The red pepper juice really permeated the flesh, oozing into each crevasse. Love the cauliflowed mash, almost as robust as a potato mash but with a much more playful taste, rooty and teasing.

Spaghetti w/ Smoked Trout, Spinach & Garlic Lemon Butter Sauce ($14)-

These round and robust noodles were soft, edging to overcooked (which I like but doesn't sit with many), and were evry plain. The garlic butter was a gentle touch, the lemon drizzle only perking it up a spot. The trout was very strong and good, mixing the smoke and water that makes me love this fish most. The spinach stood out more than the rest, making a coup on the spaghetti fortress. The trout and that mild garlic didn't know what hit them. If there was a hint of romano? It was trampled.

Zucchini Cake w/ Oatmeal Ice Cream ($6)-

The dinner portions are just right, leaving well enough room for a touch of dessert. There were some decadent and strange things chalked up on the board, like nutella stuffed pierogies, but a traditionalist mood had overtaken our table. Zucchini cake was ordered, arrived cool, moist, more like a true cake than any zucchini loaf I've taste before. Truly spongy. The squash was only a hint, as were the spices. The oatmeal ice cream was a show stopper, hints of a gummy oat texture that put cookie dough ice cream to shame, very clean and rich, hints of nutmeg, cinnamon,

Rosemary Belgian Chocolate Ice Cream ($4)-

My penchant for amusing combinations paid off in spades. What an excellent and uplifting mix. The flavour was like a trickle that swelled into a river, the rosemary smooth and hard to place even when expecting it, which then billowed and surged into a full mouth chocolate deluge, the ice cream fudge and mind blowing. bittersweet and constantly cut by the herb. What a combination!

Parts and Labour

From the chef previously behind the helm of La Palette (Kensington), Matty Matheson, comes the very new and shiny PARTS AND LABOUR up in Parkdale. It’s hard to find. I had nearly biked to Roncesvales before I realized my error. If you’re on your first visit, really pay attention to building numbers! The building is dark, with minimal signage, and is set a step back from the street. We go in and are greeted by a very friendly hostess on what is clearly a dead night. The decor was a lot of fun, with same unique industrial lights as Oddfellows further east on Queen (and is it any surprise, coming from the same group of people?). There were also many-coloured lamps hanging down over the bar like a 60’s set. The floor was open, with exposed concrete and large wood tables- almost all empty. I felt dwarfed and a bit under dressed in a baggy shift and jeans. Our server was polite, fast, but on the strange side. Maybe he was disappointed at our small table of four? Nonetheless all our drinks and food arrived in a timely manner, and the water was never empty. I also need to add in that the washrooms are a sight to see in their own right!
We wound up splitting three plates.



Smoked trout, beet root, torn bread, mint, parsley, dill, chervil, shallots, radish, chopped egg, horseradish crème fraiche - $12
We all agreed on one thing immediately: holey moley horseradish crème! It made an otherwise good dish amazing. I found the trout to be very understated, and did not even notice the egg while nibbling on this playful plate- or should I say, salad? It was an unexpected pleasure to find that the beets had been grated like spaghetti, bring a fun factor into the meal. Stringy! The fact that I have an undying love for dill also helped my enjoyment of the dish, since the herb was in abundance on the plate. Very tasty.



Roasted pork belly, seared scallop, charred scallion, pickled cipollini, grated foie gras, white onion apple smear, star anise - $16
The was nothing very special about the roasted pork belly. It tasted good, chewy and salty, but not remarkable. That said, the scallop just about took my breath away, and had us all rolling out eyes in delight. So delicate! So moist! With just a drop of an unnamed creamy sauce on it, it stole the entire meal. The scallops edges had crisped perfectly, complimenting a tender heart. It was a very big scallop as well. I found that all the different elements were well thought out, all working together to make a lovely dish.



Butternut squash, rum raisin cake, mascarpone cardamom icing, spiced walnut - $8
This dessert was very cakey and dense – almost more like a coffee cake, actually. The flavours were spicy, with nutmeg, cinnamon and clove well pronounced. The mascarpone was a major draw when we ordered, and it did a great job cutting through the denseness of the cake itself. This is not something I would order for dessert usually, though, because of how heavy and large it was. We all wished there was a run drizzle for flavour and presentation. Even though the nuts added a nice crunch and were spread about the plate, it wasn’t very impressive.


My lovely dinner guests were Adelle, Lexie, and Eugenia.