Enoteca Sociale

For a long time I've been trying to get together with my sister, and our friends Emily and Rebecca, who are also sisters. Sister double date! The potential best! And the venue has always been discussed as Enoteca Sociale (1288 Dundas West). That way, the two Italian sisters can tell the two Dutch sisters whether the food is awesome, or not (hint: it was). Things did not turn out as planned, and it was just Emily and I, a duo of little sisters, who went to Enoteca Sociale. Nearing its two year birthday, the crowd that buzzes inside is full, as are the reservations. Room at the bar is available after an hour, and I don't mind whetting my appetite with a beer down the street while waiting, knowing that the wait is indicative of a restaurant which consistently delivers quality and flavour.

The menu is bursting with intriguing combinations of taste and texture. A lover of dark leafy greens, I'm drawn to a salad of baked kale, persimmon, king mushroom, farro & pine nuts  ($13). We're of the same mind and Emily quickly get in cahoots to share everything ordered between us. I will always gladly suffer through the natural bitterness of kale to savour the richness and tang it has. But...what is this? Somehow between blanching and baking, under the buttery olive oil and surprisingly sweet fresh lemon juice, this kale is not bitter at all. I did not think that was possible, especially given that the dish is savoury. This is me, impressed. The persimmons are slice into thin sweet wafers, adding just a pique of contrast to hints of char in a dish which holds its own. Mellow pine nuts are a nice touch, but I could do without the farro, which is strangely tasteless and mushy. I haven't experience farro before mind you, so my tastes may just need maturing.

I'll warn you, our appetites were small that night, and slowed with conversation about the complexities of loving food. We nibbled, and enjoyed ourselves, but did not eat much. I think it warrants a second visit! Emboldened by the bravery of our own company, the next thing we tried was smoked sweetbreads with escarole and romano beans ($17). Sweetbreads are offal, to put it indelicately- the organs most home cooks would never consider trying to turn into something delightful. Unpleasant experiences with kidneys and liver made the choice all the more appealing and trepidating. What to expect? Comfort was lent to the dish by the inclusion of a rich and comforting bed of smooth Romano beans, rehydrated and both firm and creamy. The texture was perfect, piqued with hints of escarole which had melted into the casserole. It added a bit of herb. The sweetbreads themselves were nothing I could have predicted, and were entirely enjoyable. The texture is somewhere between rye bread and liver pate, and the flavor is comparable to chicken, with a brine like flavour underneath a natural fat. Smoking added flavor, but the final treatment was the fryer, and the skins on these nuggets had crackled and bubbled with the flavors of a cracklin skin. Though there is some of that intestinal taste, I couldn't have been more happy with this comforting winter dish meant to warm one coming in from the cold.

Though the portions are modest, their size completely in line with the mastery of their handling, Emily and I only visited ourselves upon one more dish, the house made ravioli, black truffle, ricotta,  apple, chestnut ($22). As a pasta, I expected it would be just the right thing to do me in with heaviness. The ravioli were large and flat, with the most delightfully described 'pimple of flavor' that held chestnut and apple puree, and ricotta. You can thank Emily for that wonderful mental picture (you're welcome). there is not a ton of body to these, though they spread out beautifully on a plate. Black truffle makes enticing curlicues, crimped all over the glistening pasta. It's generous, and I can taste the distinct flavor so clearly. At first I didn't realize that the oaky blue cheese taste was from the truffle. It's woody but layered and nuanced. I'm impressed by how all the elements work together. In the bursting bubbles at the heart of the ravioli is a sweet and relaxing taste, the ricotta just nudging the chestnut into a more prominent place. A dash of tiny granny smith cubes are like timpani, banging out with a more aggressive personality than the other components, and refreshing the taste buds to receive another mouthful.

Why am I at home right now when I could behaving dinner, at Enoteca Sociale?

La Palette

As it was sitting at the top of my 'To Visit' list for some time, I decided it was finally the moment to visit La Palette. For ten years a Kensington Market staple (the owner was instrumental in the creation of Pedestrian Sundays), the much-loved French resto recently moved its menu over to 492 Queen St. West, where it has a new permanent home. I found the new digs very cozy, full of warm reds and creamy yellows. The tables are tiny, or maybe I should say intimate? Maybe moreso for dinner. Since we went for lunch there was a very friendly and open feel to the place. It will be wonderful in the summertime! I was going to describe the decoration and vibe as dressed down but stereotypical French, but my guest, Myra, has actually been to France and said it's nothing similar. Interesting how stereotype can differ from the real deal.

Though I've written the individual prices of items, Myra and I both opted for the 20$ prix fixe, which comes with two items. There's also a 25$ prix fixe for three items, but we weren't that hungry!

I know I've mentioned in the past that I'm chronically early. This actually provides a lovely opportunity to taste and savour pre-food coffee. At La Palette they have brewed coffee, but it's nothing to write home about. For two dollars your get a very petite mug. Maybe the refills are free, but I was happy with the smaller amount this time and didn't ask- normally I can go through gallons of java, even when it's not too remarkable. The presentation was adorable, with a little silver jug of cream, and a mason jar of brown sugar cubes.

If I were to pick one highlight of our visit (a feature I should start including regularly here at D&D!), this would be my choice. There is so much going right in this fromage fondant. A large wedge of creamy camembert was encrusted with a shell of bread crumbs. The thick crust protected the cheese from the heat of the frier, and needed to be cracked open with a fearless fork, after which the cheese would not stop gushing from the wound! How extraordinary and indulgent. The sides were maple-glazed pumpkin seeds and spiced cranberry compote, which could be nudged onto the crust as though onto a cracker. I was especially impressed with the pumpkin seeds, which were actually in a brittle. It was sweet and crunchy. This could have been dessert!

I went to La Palette knowing that there were two things that, no matter what, I would be trying. Escargots! For those not up on your French, and missing the hint in my little illustration, that's snails. I know I've had these before, but it was more than ten years ago at a Kingston restaurant famed for not doing anything wrong. I wanted to test them on an adult palate. My first surprise came in the presentation. Even though I read the description of the snails, I still expected them to arrive on a little round dish, each one nestled into its own buttery pot. Begone, stereotypes! I have a lot to learn about French cuisine. These were served blanketted with warm baby spinach leaves and succulent grilled chanterelle mushrooms. That was my second draw to this dish. The only other time I've had chanterelles I deeply suspect they were false chanterelles. This is supposed to be one of the worlds most delicious mushrooms, and I wanted to give it a second chance. The mushrooms were what I had hoped: citrusy and buttery. That's how they're supposed to be! The rest of the dish was also quite buttery and full of onions. Though I could taste the natural smoke and saltiness of the escargots when eaten by themselves, as soon as they were combined with anything else they were completely overwhelmed.

Our mains came with a selection of sides! We were each asked to choose two. Both of us chose the winter salad and the warm slaw, but somehow I wound up with fries instead of salad. This was the only slip-up in otherwise pleasant service. I didn't mention it because if the universe gives me fries, I will eat them. The winter salad was made up of cashews, rapini, red and golden beets, and brussel sprouts in a bit of olive oil. The warm slaw is something we eat in my family a lot: hot red cabbage with just a bit of butter, salt and vinegar. There was a nice surprise in this version since I swear I could taste anise, a recent flavour obsession I have! The french fries were not a let down, and I was glad I wound up with them. They had an earthy taste left from the intact peels, and with a hint of herbs I was left with a countryside impression.

Myra ordered the fish, which was fresh caught white fish (but what kind of white fish? I should have asked). It was a very small piece, so I would suggest ordering this if you aren't starving. The skin was crisped, and the belly was light and flaky. It had a delicate mildness of flavour, without any overpowering sauce or spice. Enjoyable, but not too memorable, sadly.

This was the other thing I HAD to try! Maybe some people will be scandalized by my willingness to sample horse. It's certainly been the source of some controversy for La Palette, whose front lawn has been the site of more than one protest. For me, it's just another meat, an interesting food that I haven't tried yet. In this case the extra drive to try horse came from its interesting presentation, as part of a benedict breakfast. The toasts were slender home made coins of bread with a hard, herbed crusted that let the milky yolks pool inside. I found that the yolk and hollondaise were too watery and cool, and would have liked the dish to be a bit hotter, less soggy. Still, for taste it was very unique, and I enjoyed myself. The horse steak was served in medium-rare strips underneath the poached egg. It's comparable to beef, but I found it to be a bit more sour tasting, and more crumbly in texture. It was succulent, cooked perfectly for my tastes. I also enjoyed the mayo served on the side, which had a great kick of horseradish to it.

Of the two of us, I think I'm a little bit more adventurous for food! But hey, I'll eat anything.

Xococava / Cava

1560 Yonge Street

What a meal of many courses this was! Arriving early, I thought I would start out the dual experience of Cava restaurant and Xococava chocolatière (joint owned and operated, as you can tell by shared items on the dessert menu, and matching trends throughout) with some coffee. I had an hour to spend before our reservation. The two venues are side by side, located in a pedestrian cul-de-sac just off the sidewalk at 1560 Yonge. Xococava itself is built around the bar, with bright woods and bright lights. I got the feeling that the space used to be a sushi shop. There was that same sense of modernity and simplicity. One wall was painted with the menu, a grid with information on the variety of truffles, treats, coffees and ice-creams. There were so many things to choose from to take home! This is definitely a great spot to get a gift for that friend with a sweet tooth.

I went right for the most decadent espresso based drink available, called a Con Café there, but more commonly recognized as a Mocha (5.75).

Now I know a thing or two about espresso, having served my time at the bar of a cafe much nicer and more critical than Starbucks. Xoco served the thick home-made chocolate sauce that had my mouth watering when I saw it in a large bowl, with masses of steamed milk. Despite the price of their espresso drinks, this is a single shot place. Unfortunately the drink was very, very milky, with neither the espresso or the rich chocolate making a statement. I feel like a place that specializes in chocolate should make their cocoa drinks taste more....chocolatey! I was disappointed.

To get a better idea of the flavour of the espresso, I took a single shot. I thought it was overpriced at over 2$ for a single. It had a very strong, citrus flavour. Being more familiar with the intelligentsia and stumptown roasts common around the downtown core, tasting something so clear and acidic was a big leap for me. It’s good espresso.

Then, there were the truffles. At two dollars a pop they aren’t cheap. They are certainly worth it! I tried three kinds:

Chorizo (milk chocolate): This one was easy to like. Though I was hoping for little bits of chorizo in the ganache, it was all blended to the same creamy texture throughout. Meat and chocolate seems to be a theme at Xococava, as they also sport an award-winning maple bacon ice cream. The truffle was not overpoweringly salty, and the meat added an interesting smokiness.

Black Olive (white chocolate): After ordering I was told people either love of hate this truffle. I fall into the latter category. When ordering I had expected this to be a dark-chocolate truffle, a combination which makes more sense to me. It was white chocolate, which I’m not fond of. The olive inside was not a tapenade, but a jelly. It was as excessively salty as the white chocolate was excessively sweet, and for me it was just too overpowering.

Szechwan Peppercorn (milk chocolate): The winner of the three! Spicy, but not hot, and a huge punch of black pepper flavour calmed down with the creaminess of ganache. This truffle did have little bits of peppercorn for texture, I was ecstatic to taste. I would order this over and over, it was so good.


Other things I sampled:

-Creme Brulé ice cream: Bang-on flavour, but not as dense as I like ice cream to be. Very airy.

-Earl Grey chocolate: Amazing. Again, there was a hint of salt. The tea was left as crunchy leaves in the dark chocolate, so there was a delightful crispness inside.

-Almond and Hazelnut Dragées: Crunchy nuts with a crunchy, chocolate dusted coating. I think these would be dangerous to have as a coffee table snack.

-Florentine: An Italian dessert appears on this Catalan-inspired menu! The Florentine was small and thin, and was like eating a flake pastry pie crust with butterscotch and almond slivers on top. It was very buttery and satisfying.


Next door at Cava, the decor is completely different, and the fine dining begins. The staff is very friendly, and I’m sure it’s not just because one of my guests is a previous member of Xoco. They seat us, hang our jackets, and are very friendly. The lighting is moody and low. From the ceiling hang white rectangles, diffusing the light that glows from inlaid lights. On the walls are fine art prints of contemporary photography by Robert Sprachman, and design by 3rd Uncle. Chefs Christopher McDonald and Doug Penfold put their extensive experience to work together to create an ever-changing and unique menu of small dishes perfect for sharing. There’s even an option to have them cook something just for you! This time though, we stick to the menu. Unintentionally, we wound up with a nearly completely vegetarian selection at a restaurant known for home-crafted meat. Should have had the cava charcuteria (16.50) too, I suspect!

Papas Fritas – 6.95

The papas fritas came wrapped in a paper cone, which was attached to a stand inserted directly into the tabletop. It was impressive, but later in the meal we found that the stand got in the way, and couldn’t be moved. The fritas themselves were thick-cut, and very light and fluffy. They didn’t have too strong a flavour. Fries, by any other name. The hint of rosemary on them was the only thing to really set them apart, enjoyable as they were. The sauce that went with the fries was really great, adding a more complex smokiness of chipotle to the salty fritas.

Bruschetta of Edamame, grilled green onions, Moroccan olives and Sicilian tomatoes – 9.00

The bread used for this bruschetta was amazing. It had a chewy crust, was dense without being difficult to eat. The way it was cooked left lightly blackened tidbits along the crust, and they added a taste of char that went surprisingly well with the edamame paste. The edamame had the consistency of a thick hummus, and added a soft, mellow flavour. If anything, it added body to the dish, while the thick-sliced grilled tomato and parmesan shone for their bold flavours. The olives were just a light and pleasant accent, not leaving too strong an impression. Mixed into the generous topping on the hearty bread were full roasted chive leafs, which added colour and a punch of onion flavour. We were all very impressed with the dish, and it split nicely, making a great, salty appetizer.

Cauliflower and kabocha squash tagine with medjool dates and Spanish saffron – 9.50

A tagine, for those not in the know, is an African dish that is essentially a kind of casserole. The word refers to both the food and the dish it’s cooked in. Our tagine arrived piping hot, covered in a flaky topping which we never did identify. The crumbly texture probably saved the cauliflower from being too soft. It was delicate and had just enough flavourful oil to moisten it. The dates must have been macerated into the mix, because we didn’t taste any large pieces, but their flavour was throughout. The dish was pleasantly sweet, the chunks of squash also adding its own unique flavour. To refresh all that vegetable creaminess and sweetness were crisp leaves of parsley, dispersed generously in and atop the heaps of vegetable.

Fresh corn tamal with wild mushrooms and pasilla chile-wild plum sauce – 8.50

Beautifully presented, the corn tamal arrived looking just like a husk of fresh corn on the plate. It was served wrapped in cooked corn husk, bound with thread at one end. Beautiful. A thick layer of white corn meal was heavy and dense with moisture, the texture crumbly and pleasant. Breaking that outer layer revealed heaps of mushroom and corn kernels. The whole combination had a earthy flavour,. It was so soft and palatable that chewing was almost unnecessary. Unfortunately the sauce that came with it did not meet our expectations. Having never had a pasilla chile before, I wasn’t expecting a bitter flavour. In my experience things made with chile are usually hot with a taste of vinegar. This was very different. Even mixed with wild plum, the sauce tasted dry and strange, it’s bitterness standing out far too much.

The Pomegranate

Many an evening spent biking the college stretch has found me looking into the mysterious glow of The Pomegranate restaurant. It’s not that the blue walls and fine tapestries have scared me from visiting until now. Like more than a couple people I know, I have had the unfortunate problem of trying to call them a visit for lunch- this is a dinner only establishment.
Knowing that, we arrived at 8, well after open, but also well before close.
I knew this place was going to be a five star for atmosphere. The walls are draped with ornate rugs, tassels dangling. Photos and paintings show women and men in traditional Iranian clothes. The place did not lack for colour or lighting. Patterned lamps hung down casting patterns on the cerulean wall, making us feel under water. There were hand-painted tiles inlaid on all the walls. We felt comfortable.
To start we ordered a bottle of Argentinian wine, Trapiche, a malbec reserve. Pomegranate only serves two kinds of meat from what I can tell. Mostly it’s lamb, and one or two dishes have chicken, or are vegetarian. Thus the red choice- and it was a delicious wine which I will be certain to purchase again. Between myself and my two guests, we ordered four dishes.


Maast-o Khiar - $4.25
A blend of English cucumber, walnuts, raisins and rose petals in a rich creamy herbed yogurt.
This appetizer was served with warm Barbary bread- and by warm, I mean HOT! Wrapped in a warm cloth, it tasted incredibly fresh, while crusty on the outside. I firmly believe this was fresh baked. The mast-o khiar was spooned out onto our separate plates. I was a bit disappointed that I couldn’t taste much of the rose petals, which were actually more like a fine powder on top of the dish. Eaten on top of bread or by itself, the dish was mild, the raisins and walnuts adding the most texture and flavour. It was refreshing, and thus served well as an app, but wasn’t terribly memorable.

All the main dishes were served with a salad of mixed greens and a happy helping of basmati rice. There was also a small bowl of something that reminded me of pico, with mint. My companions dishes were served in metal bowls with the gravy filled right to the edge, but mine came with a proud and large shank of lamb front and center.



Daily Special - Seared Eggplant with Lamb - $14.95
I tried a spoonful of this saucy, savoury dish with some of my basmati rice. Pomegranate knows a thing of two about making a winning sauce. As the Pomegranate was my second blog to review, I made a rookie mistake- I forgot to take my notebook. Finding standard menu items on the Pomegranates website was easy, but I don’t have the details on what was in this stew. It was rich, with thick and mushroomy gravy. The eggplant was not too noticeable, but the charred flavour hung around underneath the bold lamb aromas. For a cold and wet day, it was a great choice.


Aloo Gheysi - $13.95
A stew of bokhara plums and dried apricots in a saffron sauce with boneless chicken pieces
The plums have pits in them. We were warned about this twice by two different servers. I’m a firm believer that every bit of an animal, plant or fruit contains essential flavours, even if it’s just a bit of an addition. Of the three dishes, we all agreed that this was the most flavourful. I love sweet dinners because they’re different from what one usually gets, but my friends both said they aren’t historically fans. All of us loved it. Even though there was a variety of fruit, the chicken and saffron did a lot to keep the dish from being too sweet. Again, Pomegranate showed a skill for sauces. Unlike other saucy middle eastern dishes I’ve tries, this was not too buttery, but full of natural taste.



Morasa Polo - $14.95
Jewelled rice – slivers of Seville orange peel, almond and pistachio with diced carrots and barberries blended in saffron basmati rice served with a braised lamb shank
I am not much of a lamb eater. I’m not opposed to it, but I tend to lean towards vegetarian dishes. So the times I’ve eaten lamb can be counted on one hand. This was...superlative. Can I use that word for a hunk of meat on a big bone? It was great. It tasted strictly of meat. There was no sauce, and the spices were very simple, almost not there. But please, let me describe its tenderness. I had a piece on my fork, and I bit that piece. Half stayed on the fork, just falling away. I don’t know if I’ve ever had something so tender! Beautiful lamb.
The rice that came with my dish was also different from what my friends had with their dishes. This ‘jewelled rice’ was full of chips of candied orange peel, crisp nuts, and carrots. It was as colourful as confetti, and I couldn’t get enough of it. The basmati was so light and fluffy that it didn’t sit heavily like rice usually does.

The desserts were very tempting, and I saw the tables all around us ordering the same thing, but we all agreed that we were too full to venture into desserts - this time.

My guests this evening were my roomate Molly and her man, Pietro.

Parts and Labour

From the chef previously behind the helm of La Palette (Kensington), Matty Matheson, comes the very new and shiny PARTS AND LABOUR up in Parkdale. It’s hard to find. I had nearly biked to Roncesvales before I realized my error. If you’re on your first visit, really pay attention to building numbers! The building is dark, with minimal signage, and is set a step back from the street. We go in and are greeted by a very friendly hostess on what is clearly a dead night. The decor was a lot of fun, with same unique industrial lights as Oddfellows further east on Queen (and is it any surprise, coming from the same group of people?). There were also many-coloured lamps hanging down over the bar like a 60’s set. The floor was open, with exposed concrete and large wood tables- almost all empty. I felt dwarfed and a bit under dressed in a baggy shift and jeans. Our server was polite, fast, but on the strange side. Maybe he was disappointed at our small table of four? Nonetheless all our drinks and food arrived in a timely manner, and the water was never empty. I also need to add in that the washrooms are a sight to see in their own right!
We wound up splitting three plates.



Smoked trout, beet root, torn bread, mint, parsley, dill, chervil, shallots, radish, chopped egg, horseradish crème fraiche - $12
We all agreed on one thing immediately: holey moley horseradish crème! It made an otherwise good dish amazing. I found the trout to be very understated, and did not even notice the egg while nibbling on this playful plate- or should I say, salad? It was an unexpected pleasure to find that the beets had been grated like spaghetti, bring a fun factor into the meal. Stringy! The fact that I have an undying love for dill also helped my enjoyment of the dish, since the herb was in abundance on the plate. Very tasty.



Roasted pork belly, seared scallop, charred scallion, pickled cipollini, grated foie gras, white onion apple smear, star anise - $16
The was nothing very special about the roasted pork belly. It tasted good, chewy and salty, but not remarkable. That said, the scallop just about took my breath away, and had us all rolling out eyes in delight. So delicate! So moist! With just a drop of an unnamed creamy sauce on it, it stole the entire meal. The scallops edges had crisped perfectly, complimenting a tender heart. It was a very big scallop as well. I found that all the different elements were well thought out, all working together to make a lovely dish.



Butternut squash, rum raisin cake, mascarpone cardamom icing, spiced walnut - $8
This dessert was very cakey and dense – almost more like a coffee cake, actually. The flavours were spicy, with nutmeg, cinnamon and clove well pronounced. The mascarpone was a major draw when we ordered, and it did a great job cutting through the denseness of the cake itself. This is not something I would order for dessert usually, though, because of how heavy and large it was. We all wished there was a run drizzle for flavour and presentation. Even though the nuts added a nice crunch and were spread about the plate, it wasn’t very impressive.


My lovely dinner guests were Adelle, Lexie, and Eugenia.